Mary in the Vineyard: Riemenschneider, Theft & Vines

If you walk up the Kirchberg from Volkach's old town, you reach the pilgrimage church Mary in the Vineyard (Maria im Weingarten) after about 15 to 20 minutes. The path leads through vineyards, past a Stations of the Cross from 1864 with pilgrim stations from the early 16th century. The climb alone is worth it: the view back over Volkach and the Mainschleife is one of the finest in the region.

The Church

The late Gothic church was built in the mid-15th century under the Würzburg master builder Kilian Reuter. The choir was completed in 1451, the nave in 1457. It is a single-nave hall church with a polygonal choir, typical of Franconian rural churches of the period.

The pilgrimage dates back to a Pietà from the 14th century. But the church became famous for a different work of art.

The Riemenschneider Madonna

Tilman Riemenschneider, the most important late Gothic woodcarver of Franconia, received the commission for a Madonna in 1521. In 1524 he delivered a life-size figure of Mary with the infant Jesus, standing on a crescent moon, surrounded by a halo of rays with 50 stylised roses. The Madonna in the Rosary, as it is known, is one of his last Marian works before his involvement in the Peasants' War.

What makes it special: the figure is unpainted, without any polychrome finish. The limewood shows its natural surface.

The Theft of 1962

On the night of 6 August 1962, thieves lowered themselves through a church window on a rope. While removing the Madonna, she fell; the rosary shattered, angel wings and musician putti broke off.

What followed was one of the most sensational art investigations of the post-war era. Henri Nannen, editor-in-chief of Stern magazine, offered a 100,000 Deutschmark reward and guaranteed the thieves immunity if the work was returned. After the ransom was handed over, the piece was found near Großgründlach, close to Nuremberg. In 1963 the restored Madonna returned to Volkach.

Planning Your Visit

The church is open from April to October: Monday, Thursday to Sunday and public holidays from 10 am to 5 pm. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday. Admission 2 euros. On Fridays from May to October there is a guided tour at 4:30 pm at the gate entrance.

Walk There Instead of Driving

The most beautiful way to the church is on foot through the vineyards. From the hotel it is about a 20-minute uphill walk. For a longer tour: the Dschungelpfad (8.5 km) also passes Mary in the Vineyard (Maria im Weingarten), or take the circular route via the Kammerberg (6.6 km).

Back in Volkach, the Restaurant 1917 awaits with Franconian cuisine. And if you want to explore the region further, you will find more excursion tips on our blog.

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This article is part of our Mainschleife Guide with all tips for your stay along the Mainschleife.